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Synonymous with both fertility and feminism;  African waist beads are thought to originate among the Yoruba tribes of Africa – a significant proportion of the population of which, is now settled within Nigeria. Conversely, the tradition also extends to Western Africa, notably Ghana, where women perceive African waist beads to be both a sign of wealth/ aristocracy, and of femininity.

The Western fascination with African waist beads has been a long and debated one, with many of the impression they are purely worn to attract a mate’s attention. While there is some evidence to suggest this is true, the reasoning for the wearing of such adornments is actually far deeper, and goes back many hundreds of years.

Due to the sheer diversity of sub-tribes falling within the Yoruban categorization, there are many conflicting reports regarding the primary functionality of waist beads. The general consensus however, is that Yoruba people perceive glass beads to be the source of life, and ‘of the Earth’. It is perhaps unsurprising then, that the supernatural beliefs relating  to the wearing of beads for birth control, and as a source of protection to pregnant women, are still upheld today.

The more frequently discussed symbolism associated with African waist beads, is that of sensuality and seduction. Among the Yoruba tribes, the belief in superstition, spirit, and the energies of the Earth has lent itself to the magical properties of African trade beads and glass beads. Yoruban women are said to ‘lace’ beads with incantations, and symbolic charms, which assist in the persuasive powers they have over men. Brides lure their new husbands with the promising rattle of waist beads – however such behavior is also thought to be communicative of fertility, at certain times of the month.

Ghana, regarded as the ‘bead production capital of the World’, has held a long fascination with beads as both ornamental, and symbolic adornments. The wearing of waist beads among the Asante tribe is still a popular, and even fashionable trend today. Although modern belief tends to be limited to the aesthetic benefits of waist beads, some Asante tribeswomen still wear them as symbols of chastity, femininity and status indicators. Mostly, they are loved as a fashion item which cinches the waist, and accentuates the natural curvaceous figure of African women – a figure that most men instinctively find attractive anyway!

2009 was a very big year for Kenya-born jewelry artist Nasimiyu Wekesa.

Not only did she receive a feature-spread within several notable publications – she also enjoyed the exposure of her creations at New York’s ‘Couture’ Fashion Week that same year.

Nasimiyu has been living in the United States for the past fifteen years, yet much of her heart still belongs to Africa. Every aspect of her jewelry, which ranges from chunky, focal African trade bead necklaces; to delicate multi-strand collars featuring an infusion of Christmas and Kazuri beads, is designed befitting of the elegance of African women. She has a particular fascination with Kenyan beads.

Describing her bead creations as “an extension of her soul”, Nasimiyu’s childhood collection of Mali wedding beads, and Venetian trade beads is a wonder to behold. She describes the significance behind her collection as akin to the “history of her life”. Each bead or bead string has been gifted unto her, or a member of her family, and are regarded as part and parcel of the rites throughout life. These include coming of age, betrothal to a husband, marriage and family planning. “I am bringing back the path of the answers of life together, by stringing their past to the present.”

The achievement of her jewelry featuring alongside the haute couture creations of acclaimed designer Andres Aquino, has been well worth the self-confessed toils until 12a.m of a morning. Yet Nasamiyu’s motivations go far deeper than just reaping the rewards and recognition that personal success brings.

She is a staunch supporter, and ambassador of the Born To Aid Foundation – (which she herself founded) and continues to support by donating 10% of her profits, on a month-by-month basis. Set up to improve the lives of children afflicted by Aids, or having experienced the loss of a relative due to the disease; Nasamiyu hopes that the recognition she receives will further highlight the vital work that still needs to be done in Kenya.

Since her showcase in 2009, Nasimiyu has been reaping the benefits of the exposure, and creating more stunning pieces of African inspired jewelry. To her, this is not simply a fundraising drive, nor just a means to a living. It’s about maintaining the love and connection with her Kenyan homeland, and weaving a part of it’s history into every piece she makes!